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128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128
Atmega 128Atmega 128, Atmega 128128, autoroll, autroll, Dishnet Work scripts and files for the Atmega 128 128 dss card is good !

This Atmega 128card has an 18.000 Mhz XTAL (this is ideal to communicate with the receiver). Please note that this is the only card that can be upgraded to married sub in the future. All other cardsmightnot be compatible with married sub because the standard and the pin-out will be chosen by coders working with Omega Efa. The programmer is exclusively designed for wafer boards like the Atmega 128.You cant go wrong with the Atmega 128 128 and the FTA technical cd rom.

The Universal Autroll Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 or The Atmega 128Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128 is the most amazing and exciting product to come out for DishNet in years!! Comes complete with Atmega 128 programmer. You will need to extract your box keys in order to use the Atmega 128 128 EFA. You cantdo this with a QuadMode JTAG Reader. The Atmega 128 128 EFA Programmer is specifically designed for use with the Atmega 128 128 EFA Wafer. Includes: Programmer.

This license upgrade enables the Atmega 128PPM3 Programmer to support high-speed In-System Programming (ISP) of the Atmel Atmega 128 microcontroller family using the JTAG algorithm. This support requires that the programmer JTAG port is connected to the JTAG port of the Target Atmega 128 AVR device and that the device is enabled for JTAG programming (i.e. JTAGEN Fuse is programmed) This requires that the progammer is connected to the Target Device JTAG port and that the device is enabled for JTAG programming.

The Universal Autroll Atmega 128 128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128 is the most amazing and exciting product to come out for DishNet in years!! Comes complete with Atmega 128 programmer. You will need to extract your box keys in order to use the Atmega 128 128 EFA. You can only do this with a Quad Mode JTAG and Atmega 128Xtreme ISO Programmer. The Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 EFA Programmer is specifically designed for use with the Atmega 128 128 EFA Wafer

The Universal Autroll Atmega 128 128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128 with it's wafer-thin board for receiver stealth appearance. Card mounting on IC components. Fully upgradeable with ISO programmer Each unit is professionally designed and tested.

Troubleshooting

The Universal Autroll Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128

This document pertains to the Black Atmega 128's( Official OMEGA-EFA's ) and the
Blue wafer Atmega 128's with a switch.

BLUE WAFER WITHOUT SWITCH
=========================
If you have a Blue wafer without a switch. You will be required to make a
modification to the board: Adding a two-way switch. The two-way switch is attached
in the following manner. Place the board in front of you so the Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 chip is
farthest from you. Note where the wire or 000 is placed on the board, and remove it.
The top end of this wire goes to left side of switch, now to the right is a blank
soldering pad, connect this pad to right side of switch. Now connect the middle of
the switch to the bottom pad where the wire came off of.

TROUBLE-SHOOTING
================
1. "Failed to Enter program mode" Message from JeepersDx210
1. Atmega 128128 Connection:
1.1 Verify the card is inserted into programmer correctly.
1.2 Insert the Atmega 128128 with a Smart Card or business cards in programmer.
1.3 Verify Atmega 128 is rectangular, no external bits attached to board.

2. Voltage Problem:
2.1 Try using a gender changer instead of a cable for the programmer.
2.2 Try using a different computer ( no Compaq's, Dell's, HP's these are
known to cause problems ). If works create a external power supply
for programmer.

3. Incorrect Jumper(Black Atmega 128Atmega 128 128) or Switch(Blue Atmega 128) Setting:
3.1 For Black Atmega 128 program with Jumper ON.
3.2 For Blue Atmega 128 program with switch away from Atmega 128128 chip.

4. Atmega 128 Programmed at improper crystal frequency. This is bad as it may render the Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 chip useless until unlocked.
4.1 Verify the crystal frequency by looking at the silver item on the Atmega 128
board and verify that are your using the correct board type
( i.e.; Atmega 128128@##.####MHz).
4.2 See 5.1

5. Atmega 128128 Locked
5.1 Start JeepersDx and select ATMEL -> Atmega 128128 Erase Flash/EEPROM, then
program at proper board frequency of crystal. If no go, look into 1.2 more.
Please note: This requires a known computer that can write and Atmega 128 board.

6. "Smart Card not inserted Correctly Message" when Atmega 128 in receiver.
6.1 Incorrect Programming:
6.2 Verify you set Board type as Atmega 128128@18.0000MHz for Black Atmega 128 and
Atmega 128@18.4320MHz for Blue Atmega 128.
6.3 Jumper or Switch in Wrong Position:
6.4 Make sure jumper is off on Black Atmega 128 while in Receiver.
6.5 Make sure switch is towards Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 chip on Blue Atmega 128's.

7. Capacitors Blown:
7.1 Remove C1 and C2 from Atmega 128 board, reprogram and see if works.
7.2 Preview Channels Only, All others Black Screen.
7.3 Initial Wait for video:
7.4 Can take from 20 seconds to 2 minutes for initial video to appear upon
power on of receiver.

8. Wrong Keys
8.1 Verify Key0 and Key1 are correct.
8.2 Verify proper boxkeys are being used.
8.3 Static

8.4 Program Atmega 128 as normal, then insert in IRD for 5 minutes trying to watch a
black channel. Then connect Atmega 128 back to computer, and Hit Actions -> Verify
EEPROM, then Actions -> Verify Program.

8.5 If errors:
Reprogram Atmega 128, unplug power from IRD and satellite feed, insert Atmega 128,
wait 1 minute, then plug in power and satellite feed.

8.6 If no errors:
Reprogram Atmega 128, select ATMEL -> Atmega 128128 and Lock/Fuse Settings, select
yes to continue, remove check mark from M103C in Fuse Extended section, then
remove jumper(black Atmega 128) or move switch(blue Atmega 128) towards Atmega 128128
chip, then hit write.

9. Bad Atmega 128128 chip
9.1 Program Atmega 128 as normal, and Hit Actions -> Verify EEPROM, then Actions -> Verify
Program. If error and you have tried on many different computers, most likely
bad chip.

10. Picture will freeze in few min to few hours.
10.1. Wrong Lock/Fuse bit.
10.2 Up/down channel will work again.
10.3 *** Don't fool with other setting, do this at your own risk***
Remove jumper from Black Atmega 128 or move switch towards Atmega 128128 chip on Blue
Atmega 128. After program Atmega 128 as normal, select ->Atmel,->Atmeg128-> lock/fuse
settings. Click on "CKOPT" to de-select. Click on write

11. Incorrect crystal used on Atmega 128.
11.1 Verify you are using either a 18mhz or 18.43mhz crystal on Atmega 128.

12. Atmega 128 programmed at board type Atmega 128128 only.
12.1 Program at proper crystal frequency and verify switch(Blue Atmega 128) is towards
Atmega 128128 chip or Jumper(Black Atmega 128) is off.
12.2. Software catching up
12.3 Blackouts occur when the stream is out of whack with the software and the
software needs to catch up with the proper sequence of stream, usually can take
up to 45 seconds.

13. Video for few minutes/hours/day then black screen.
13.1 Programmed at incorrect crystal frequency:
13.2 Program at proper crystal speed ( see 2.1.1 )
13.3 Keys change:
13.4 Program Atmega 128 with new keys: Connect Atmega 128 to computer, start JeepersDX, hit
get under keys section, then hit write. Insert Atmega 128 back into receiver.

14. "Blacked out in the area" message while trying to watch a channel.
14.1 Wrong blackout string
14.2 Use default blackout string of "00 00 B4 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F".
14.3 Channel guide:
14.4 Do not use channel guide to get into channel, type in channel # directly, if still
same message press channel up then channel down.

15. Channels Missing in guide.
15.1. Wrong tiers:
15.2 Use default tier settings from JeepersDX210.After program Atmega 128 as normal, select - >Atmel,->Atmeg128-> lock/fuse

----------------------------------

Notes on the Atmega 128128
======================

THIS IS IMPORTANT so read prior to posting. With normal use and basic understanding of how it operates, the Atmega 128128 processor will function without problems. jEEPersDX hides a lot of the little things required to know for programming, however there may be situations that arise which could cause someone to become alarmed about the state of their precious little Atmega 128128.

The Atmega 128128 processors that support 16MHz(and higher when pushed) are not low voltage parts. There are some (marked L), but they are only specified to operate up to 8MHz. The Atmega 128128-16AI/C are designed to operate from 4.5 to 5.5V. Most PC LPT ports can barely push 3.5 V without anything attached. With an AVR drawing power, the voltage will drop, typically down to 2.5 V or less.

NOTE: the Atmega 128128 will not respond at all, _OR_ experience problems when programming if there is not enough power and the voltage drops too low. I've experienced it many times and thought I had damaged the processor. HOWEVER, in all cases, jEEPers could successfully program the Atmega 128128 when sufficient power at a decent voltage was provided. These problems were experienced when using crystals for the clock input (as opposed to the IRD clock, this is what the standard AVR uses). If you are using a crystal with the Atmega 128128, remember that the faster the crystal, the more power required, and thus, the more succeptable you are to power related programming issues.

The good news, AGAIN, jEEPers will program the Atmega 128128 whenever a sufficient supply is provided, and there are a few things that can be done to ensure this:

- Data 7 (pin 9) of the LPT port can be used to draw power from now, so you can electrically tie this into the power scheme the same as the other data lines.
- Change the resistors on the programmer/AVR to a lower value (100 Ohms)
- Short across the resistors (not my suggestion, I'm always concerned about driver contention, but it works).
- Probably the best solution, is to remove the resistors off the board and add a good 5VDC supply to the programmer (just ensure you know what you're doing).

Ensure the Atmega 128128 has a clock source when programming. If you're testing with a board with a jumper for IRD/PC clock and a crystal, ensure that the crystal is present, or the jumper is in place. Without a clock, the processor is simply dead.

One final note, don't program (clear) the lock bits unless you're particularily brave. The remove the locked status, you need to erase the chip. This can be very difficult to unless you have a good supply.

-----------------------------------------------

A few Error Codes

Error message 005 "Your smart card does not currently have authorization to
view or purchase this program. Please wait or channel up
or down"
problem--Just wait, its gotta get the new decrypt keys

Error message 015 "Acquiring satallite signal"
problem- take a quess

Error message 019 "The smart card is not inserted correctly"
problem-Either looped or not put in the IRD right

Error message 020 "The card you have inserted is not valid for use in this receiver"
problem-wrong ird number put on card

Error message 021 "Please insert your smart card"
problem-put smart card in. If your cards in you have a hardware problem.

Error message 022 "Your receiver has not yet been authorized"
Problem-Your IRD # and boxkeys are 00'd out or wrong or you ird status byte is set at 80 (Suspended) needs to
be set at 00 (normal)

Error message 023 "Unable to aquire program guide information"
problem-no satallite signal.

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