128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128
Atmega 128Atmega 128, Atmega 128128, autoroll, autroll, Dishnet Work scripts and files for the Atmega 128 128 dss card is good !
This Atmega 128card has an 18.000 Mhz XTAL (this is ideal to communicate with the receiver). Please note that this is the only card that can be upgraded to married sub in the future. All other cardsmightnot
be compatible with married sub because the standard and the pin-out will be chosen by coders working with Omega Efa. The programmer is exclusively designed for wafer boards like the Atmega 128.You cant go
wrong with the Atmega 128 128 and the FTA technical cd rom.
The Universal Autroll Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 or The Atmega 128Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128 is the most amazing and exciting product to come out for DishNet in years!! Comes complete with Atmega 128 programmer. You will need to extract your box keys in order to use the Atmega 128 128 EFA. You cantdo this with a QuadMode JTAG Reader. The Atmega 128 128 EFA Programmer is specifically designed for use with the Atmega 128 128 EFA Wafer. Includes: Programmer.
This license upgrade enables the Atmega 128PPM3 Programmer to support high-speed In-System Programming (ISP) of the Atmel Atmega 128 microcontroller family using the JTAG algorithm. This support requires that the programmer JTAG port is connected to the JTAG port of the Target Atmega 128 AVR device and that the device is enabled for JTAG programming (i.e. JTAGEN Fuse is programmed)
This requires that the progammer is connected to the Target Device JTAG port and that the device is enabled for JTAG programming.
The Universal Autroll Atmega 128 128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128 is the most amazing and exciting product to come out for DishNet in years!! Comes complete with Atmega 128 programmer. You will need to extract your box keys in order to use the Atmega 128 128 EFA. You can only do this with a Quad Mode JTAG and Atmega 128Xtreme ISO Programmer. The Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 EFA Programmer is specifically designed for use with the Atmega 128 128 EFA Wafer
The Universal Autroll Atmega 128 128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128 with it's wafer-thin board for receiver stealth appearance. Card mounting on IC components. Fully upgradeable with ISO programmer Each unit is professionally designed and tested.
Troubleshooting
The Universal Autroll Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 or The Universal Autoroll Atmega 128128
This document pertains to the Black Atmega 128's(
Official OMEGA-EFA's ) and the Blue wafer Atmega 128's with a
switch.
BLUE WAFER WITHOUT SWITCH
========================= If you have a Blue wafer
without a switch. You will be required to make a
modification to the board: Adding a two-way switch. The
two-way switch is attached in the following manner. Place
the board in front of you so the Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 chip is farthest
from you. Note where the wire or 000 is placed on the board,
and remove it. The top end of this wire goes to left side
of switch, now to the right is a blank soldering pad,
connect this pad to right side of switch. Now connect the
middle of the switch to the bottom pad where the wire came
off of.
TROUBLE-SHOOTING ================ 1.
"Failed to Enter program mode" Message from JeepersDx210
1. Atmega 128128 Connection: 1.1 Verify the card is
inserted into programmer correctly. 1.2 Insert the
Atmega 128128 with a Smart Card or business cards in programmer.
1.3 Verify Atmega 128 is rectangular, no external bits
attached to board.
2. Voltage Problem: 2.1 Try
using a gender changer instead of a cable for the programmer.
2.2 Try using a different computer ( no Compaq's, Dell's,
HP's these are known to cause problems ). If works create
a external power supply for programmer.
3.
Incorrect Jumper(Black Atmega 128Atmega 128 128) or Switch(Blue Atmega 128) Setting:
3.1 For Black Atmega 128 program with Jumper ON. 3.2 For
Blue Atmega 128 program with switch away from Atmega 128128 chip.
4. Atmega 128 Programmed at improper crystal frequency.
This is bad as it may render the Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 chip useless until
unlocked. 4.1 Verify the crystal frequency by looking at
the silver item on the Atmega 128 board and verify that are
your using the correct board type ( i.e.;
Atmega 128128@##.####MHz). 4.2 See 5.1
5. Atmega 128128
Locked 5.1 Start JeepersDx and select ATMEL ->
Atmega 128128 Erase Flash/EEPROM, then program at proper board
frequency of crystal. If no go, look into 1.2 more. Please
note: This requires a known computer that can write and Atmega 128
board.
6. "Smart Card not inserted Correctly Message"
when Atmega 128 in receiver. 6.1 Incorrect Programming:
6.2 Verify you set Board type as Atmega 128128@18.0000MHz for
Black Atmega 128 and Atmega 128@18.4320MHz for Blue Atmega 128.
6.3 Jumper or Switch in Wrong Position: 6.4 Make sure
jumper is off on Black Atmega 128 while in Receiver. 6.5 Make
sure switch is towards Atmega 128Atmega 128 128 chip on Blue Atmega 128's.
7. Capacitors Blown: 7.1 Remove C1 and C2 from
Atmega 128 board, reprogram and see if works. 7.2 Preview
Channels Only, All others Black Screen. 7.3 Initial Wait
for video: 7.4 Can take from 20 seconds to 2 minutes for
initial video to appear upon power on of receiver.
8. Wrong Keys 8.1 Verify Key0 and Key1 are
correct. 8.2 Verify proper boxkeys are being used. 8.3
Static
8.4 Program Atmega 128 as normal, then insert in
IRD for 5 minutes trying to watch a black channel. Then
connect Atmega 128 back to computer, and Hit Actions -> Verify
EEPROM, then Actions -> Verify Program.
8.5 If
errors: Reprogram Atmega 128, unplug power from IRD and
satellite feed, insert Atmega 128, wait 1 minute, then plug in
power and satellite feed.
8.6 If no errors:
Reprogram Atmega 128, select ATMEL -> Atmega 128128 and
Lock/Fuse Settings, select yes to continue, remove check
mark from M103C in Fuse Extended section, then remove
jumper(black Atmega 128) or move switch(blue Atmega 128) towards
Atmega 128128 chip, then hit write.
9. Bad Atmega 128128
chip 9.1 Program Atmega 128 as normal, and Hit Actions ->
Verify EEPROM, then Actions -> Verify Program. If error
and you have tried on many different computers, most likely
bad chip.
10. Picture will freeze in few min to
few hours. 10.1. Wrong Lock/Fuse bit. 10.2 Up/down
channel will work again. 10.3 *** Don't fool with other
setting, do this at your own risk*** Remove jumper from
Black Atmega 128 or move switch towards Atmega 128128 chip on Blue
Atmega 128. After program Atmega 128 as normal, select
->Atmel,->Atmeg128-> lock/fuse settings. Click on
"CKOPT" to de-select. Click on write
11. Incorrect
crystal used on Atmega 128. 11.1 Verify you are using either a
18mhz or 18.43mhz crystal on Atmega 128.
12. Atmega 128
programmed at board type Atmega 128128 only. 12.1 Program at
proper crystal frequency and verify switch(Blue Atmega 128) is
towards Atmega 128128 chip or Jumper(Black Atmega 128) is off.
12.2. Software catching up 12.3 Blackouts occur when
the stream is out of whack with the software and the
software needs to catch up with the proper sequence of
stream, usually can take up to 45 seconds.
13.
Video for few minutes/hours/day then black screen. 13.1
Programmed at incorrect crystal frequency: 13.2 Program at
proper crystal speed ( see 2.1.1 ) 13.3 Keys change:
13.4 Program Atmega 128 with new keys: Connect Atmega 128 to
computer, start JeepersDX, hit get under keys section,
then hit write. Insert Atmega 128 back into receiver.
14.
"Blacked out in the area" message while trying to watch a
channel. 14.1 Wrong blackout string 14.2 Use default
blackout string of "00 00 B4 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F 7F
7F". 14.3 Channel guide: 14.4 Do not use channel guide
to get into channel, type in channel # directly, if still
same message press channel up then channel down.
15. Channels Missing in guide. 15.1. Wrong tiers:
15.2 Use default tier settings from JeepersDX210.After
program Atmega 128 as normal, select -
>Atmel,->Atmeg128-> lock/fuse
----------------------------------
Notes on
the Atmega 128128 ======================
THIS IS
IMPORTANT so read prior to posting. With normal use and basic
understanding of how it operates, the Atmega 128128 processor will
function without problems. jEEPersDX hides a lot of the little
things required to know for programming, however there may be
situations that arise which could cause someone to become
alarmed about the state of their precious little Atmega 128128.
The Atmega 128128 processors that support 16MHz(and higher
when pushed) are not low voltage parts. There are some (marked
L), but they are only specified to operate up to 8MHz. The
Atmega 128128-16AI/C are designed to operate from 4.5 to 5.5V.
Most PC LPT ports can barely push 3.5 V without anything
attached. With an AVR drawing power, the voltage will drop,
typically down to 2.5 V or less.
NOTE: the Atmega 128128
will not respond at all, _OR_ experience problems when
programming if there is not enough power and the voltage drops
too low. I've experienced it many times and thought I had
damaged the processor. HOWEVER, in all cases, jEEPers could
successfully program the Atmega 128128 when sufficient power at a
decent voltage was provided. These problems were experienced
when using crystals for the clock input (as opposed to the IRD
clock, this is what the standard AVR uses). If you are using a
crystal with the Atmega 128128, remember that the faster the
crystal, the more power required, and thus, the more
succeptable you are to power related programming issues.
The good news, AGAIN, jEEPers will program the
Atmega 128128 whenever a sufficient supply is provided, and there
are a few things that can be done to ensure this:
-
Data 7 (pin 9) of the LPT port can be used to draw power from
now, so you can electrically tie this into the power scheme
the same as the other data lines. - Change the resistors
on the programmer/AVR to a lower value (100 Ohms) - Short
across the resistors (not my suggestion, I'm always concerned
about driver contention, but it works). - Probably the
best solution, is to remove the resistors off the board and
add a good 5VDC supply to the programmer (just ensure you know
what you're doing).
Ensure the Atmega 128128 has a clock
source when programming. If you're testing with a board with a
jumper for IRD/PC clock and a crystal, ensure that the crystal
is present, or the jumper is in place. Without a clock, the
processor is simply dead.
One final note, don't
program (clear) the lock bits unless you're particularily
brave. The remove the locked status, you need to erase the
chip. This can be very difficult to unless you have a good
supply.
-----------------------------------------------
A few Error Codes
Error message 005 "Your
smart card does not currently have authorization to view
or purchase this program. Please wait or channel up or
down" problem--Just wait, its gotta get the new decrypt
keys
Error message 015 "Acquiring satallite signal"
problem- take a quess
Error message 019 "The smart
card is not inserted correctly" problem-Either looped or
not put in the IRD right
Error message 020 "The card
you have inserted is not valid for use in this receiver"
problem-wrong ird number put on card
Error message
021 "Please insert your smart card" problem-put smart card
in. If your cards in you have a hardware problem.
Error message 022 "Your receiver has not yet been
authorized" Problem-Your IRD # and boxkeys are 00'd out or
wrong or you ird status byte is set at 80 (Suspended) needs to
be set at 00 (normal)
Error message 023 "Unable to
aquire program guide information" problem-no satallite
signal.
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